The gardening profession, as opposed to the amateurs, is composed of two very different creatures, those who grow and those who plant. Even today there still seems to be a barrier between the horticulturalists and the designers. This split is cultural, ingrained and, in my view, counter-productive.
This realisation was most strongly driven home to me the other day, when I attended the open day of a famous horticultural college that shall remain nameless. I wandered into the design studio to be confronted by rows of small garden designs that were frighteningly reminiscent of Chelsea. The same symmetries, the same plants, the same old themes. Even though these were all urban scale domestic gardens, I was shocked to see a complete lack of edible plants, let alone natives. None of these gardens had compost heaps, or bee hotels, or cover for birds.
I lingered by a series of small front garden designs. Each student had dutifully designated a 5x3m barren spot on which the car was to be parked. No one had considered softening this car-scar with low growing herbs which might have given up their scent to the pressure of a tire. No-one had considered encroaching on this space with overhanging shrubs or robust planting that would spring back when the four by four (the only car on the road to actually take up a 5x3m parking space) was replaced by something smaller. My Smart car has a footprint of 1.5x2.5m. Was parking part of the brief? None of the students seemed to have considered banishing the car back to the kerbside. Designing a car park is a very dull exercise.
When I talked to the design tutor who was hovering, and asked about veg-growing, he registered amazement that someone might want to mix decorative elements with edibles. He conceded that edible perennials might just make a design, but advised me (in a very patronising way) that a designer should just mark out the boundary of the vegetable plot, leaving choice of crops to the owner.
Perhaps that is why Britain's most sparkling and innovative gardens have been designed by knowledgeable amateurs. Think of Vita Sackville West breaking all the rules of plant spacing or Derek Jarman making a shingle garden from native weeds and flotsam. Jean Cocteau designed an admirable edible garden in the 50's, taking inspoiration from nearby Fontainbleau and from Le Potager du Roi in Versailles.
These segregations, between horticulture and design, between exotic and local, between weed and garden plant and between decorative and edible, box-up our thinking in such constricting ways.
No wonder all the student designs looked like a pale imitation of a Chelsea garden. To me they didn’t look ‘real’. They were neither something I would want to pay for spend time maintaining and they certainly weren’t the sort of garden that I dream about. The grass would have needed far too much manicuring, the rills would not have looked good with frog spawn in them. I doubt if a bird, or a bee would have bothered with most of them.
In my own garden the edible must also be beautiful. My organic ambitions mean that native plants and old fashioned plants hold sway over the exotic. Why? Because native plants grow better than exotics. Many of my crops are in fact weeds, like elder, mâché, mustard and watercress. The peas, beans, lettuces and carrots are their close relatives. This approach means that the plants can flourish, without resort to too much cossetting. And around these natives, regardless of the fact that I am bang in the centre of London, flourish a population of insects and moths, butterflies, bees and ladybirds, spiders and flies that either pollinate the crops, or predate on other pests.
And it really is possible, even in a tiny garden, to start to influence the local fauna. As I write this I can hear the most delicious birdsong outside. Perhaps my efforts to attract the little birds are starting to pay off?
I didn't realise I was doing anything remarkable, when I started to design colour combinations in the veg beds. It never occurred to me that I might be the only person grouping crops by season rather than plant family, so that they would all look beautiful at the same time. My ploy to increase harvests, by planting climbers doesn't seem at all weird to me. But clearly to the design tutor I spoke to this week, I am perusing a lonely and intellectually bankrupt path. My gardens have no box, no coloured gravels, no stone sculptures, no arid water features.
But I do not think I am alone. Hundreds of amateur gardeners up and down the country sit in their lounges and living rooms looking out towards well tended kitchen gardens like my own, where climbing roses climb into fruit trees, where sweet peas grow with runner beans and where calendula brighten up the tomatoes. Yet this style of gardening is considered in some quarters to be unworthy. I find this attitude strange, especially now some enlightened trained horticulturalists like Joy Larcom and Alys Fowler have championed it.
As our gardens become smaller, as the ecological movement gathers momentum, as scandal after scandal makes us suspicious of shop bought food, so edible gardens become more the norm.
The horticultural and landscape professions should take note. The edible movement will not go away. In fact it is becoming more and more sophisticated. Skills that were born out of medieval monasteries, honed in the fields and lent sophistication by generations of (mainly female) cottage gardeners are today becoming 'de rigueur'.
Everyone wants their own French potager, or an Amish yard. From the French we have learned a certain panache. But we also learnt to control the abundance. Espalier is a French tradition. Climbing crops are woven through treillage and subjected to tutélage. This helps to get a better crop, but beauty and elegance are never far away from the potagers mind.
From the puritans we have learned organic principles, the thrift of seed saving and the value of our heritage. And the Amish protected their aesthetic as fiercely as their French cousins. There should be nothing garish or frivolous in their gardens.
Today an edible garden, in the hands of a skilled gardener can become a little piece of heaven. Is the picket fence there to keep the rabbits out or to protect a paradise on earth?
The professionals would do well to heed from these grass roots movements. Between a monk tending his grapevine depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry, to a San Francisco hippy cultivating his raw salads and singing about the power of flowers, there is a thousand years of gardening. But be you prelate or drop-out, the magic of edible gardening draws on something very fundamental in all of us. The enclosure of a space in order to grow food for the family satisfies the self-sufficiency in us. I cannot change the world, but I can grow a row of radishes. And the need to transform the practical into the beautiful is a fundamental human urge. To be creative is to know that you are alive. To grow your own crops, beautifully, is to have the wherewithal to satisfy both physical and cultural hungers. If I’m proved wrong I won’t eat my hat, I’ll eat my garden!